Map

Palawan

MIMAROPA
Luzon
Capital Puerto Princesa City
Population 955,902
Area 14,650 km²
Municipalities 23
Cities 1
Island Group Luzon
Languages Tagalog, Cuyonon, Palawano, Filipino

Palawan is the largest province in the Philippines by land area and one of its most ecologically significant. The long, narrow island chain extending from just south of Mindoro to the northern coast of Borneo forms the western edge of the Philippine archipelago. Forests cover most of the land. The surrounding seas hold some of the richest marine environments in the world. Puerto Princesa City on the eastern coast is the capital and the gateway for most travelers.

Puerto Princesa CityCapital
14,649 km²Area
23Municipalities
LuzonIsland Group
MIMAROPA (IV-B)Region

The Last Frontier

Palawan's reputation as the 'Last Frontier' is not simply promotional. It has the lowest population density of any Philippine province and the most intact forest cover. The Palawan Biosphere Reserve, designated by UNESCO, covers most of the main island. The province holds two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River and the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park.

Two UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Palawan is the only Philippine province with two UNESCO World Heritage Sites: the Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park (inscribed 1999) and the Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park (inscribed 1993, expanded 2009). The province also has numerous endemic species found nowhere else on earth.

El Nido in the north and Coron in the Calamian Islands are internationally recognized destinations. El Nido's limestone karst formations rising from turquoise lagoons are among the most photographed landscapes in Southeast Asia. Coron is known for World War II wreck diving and the freshwater Kayangan Lake.

Palawan's location between the Philippines and Borneo made it a zone of contact between Austronesian, Malay, and Chinese maritime cultures long before European contact. The Tabon Caves in Quezon municipality have yielded human remains dating to approximately 22,000 to 24,000 years ago—some of the oldest evidence of human habitation in the Philippines.

c. 22,000 BCE

Tabon Cave Inhabitants

Human remains discovered in Tabon Caves in Quezon, Palawan date to at least 22,000 years ago. The Tabon Man (technically Tabon Woman based on the skull fragments) represents some of the oldest human remains found in the Philippines.

1521

Spanish Contact

Magellan's expedition passed through Palawan waters. The Spanish were aware of Palawan early in the colonial period but exercised limited control over the island due to its size and the influence of the Sultanate of Sulu in southern Palawan.

1872

Iwahig Penal Colony Established

The Spanish established a penal settlement at Iwahig, which the Americans expanded significantly. The Iwahig Prison and Penal Farm remains an operating institution and a tourist attraction near Puerto Princesa.

1944

Puerto Princesa Massacre

In December 1944, Japanese forces burned 150 American POWs alive at the Puerto Princesa airfield, fearing Allied liberation. Eleven men escaped by swimming through the bay. The massacre was documented after the war.

1999

Underground River Inscribed as UNESCO World Heritage

The Puerto Princesa Subterranean River National Park was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List. In 2011, it was named one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature.

Palawan has approximately 87 ethnolinguistic groups—the highest number of any Philippine province. Indigenous peoples include the Tagbanwa, Palawanon, Batak, Tau't Bato, Molbog, and numerous subgroups. The Tagbanwa of central Palawan are known for their indigenous script, which, like Hanunuo script, is a descendant of ancient Indic writing systems.

Cuyonon and Settler Cultures

The Cuyonon people, originally from the Cuyo Islands in the Sulu Sea, are among the largest lowland ethnolinguistic groups in Palawan. They were established merchants and fishermen before significant migration from other Philippine regions. Tagalog, Cuyonon, and Visayan are all present in the lowland commercial towns.

Tagbanwa Script

The Tagbanwa people of central Palawan use an indigenous script that is a direct descendant of the Baybayin writing system. Unlike Baybayin, which fell out of use under Spanish colonization, Tagbanwa script has been maintained in some communities as a ritual and practical writing system.

Puerto Princesa City has developed a self-conscious civic culture around environmental protection. The Palawan Council for Sustainable Development, created by a national law specific to Palawan, manages the island's resource use at a level of detail not found elsewhere in the Philippines. The city regularly enforces environmental ordinances that are considered strict by Philippine standards.

Palawan's food reflects its position at the intersection of Filipino, Malay, and Chinese culinary influences. Seafood dominates—the province's waters produce prized species including the giant clam (tahong piyansa), various groupers, and the blue-ringed napoleon wrasse that draws controversy due to its endangered status. Crocodile meat, from the Palawan crocodile farm, is a documented local specialty.

Tamilok

Woodworm (shipworm, Teredo navalis) harvested from rotting mangrove wood, eaten raw with vinegar, calamansi, chili, and onion—essentially a kinilaw preparation. It has a slightly sweet, briny flavor and a soft texture. It is the most distinctive Palawan food experience and is not available commercially elsewhere. Adventurous eaters seek it out in Puerto Princesa.

Crocodile Sisig

Crocodile meat from the Puerto Princesa crocodile farm, chopped and prepared sisig-style with onions, chili, and calamansi, served on a sizzling plate. The meat is white, lean, and firm—closer to chicken or fish than pork. It is a deliberate tourist dish that has also been adopted by locals.

Halabos na Hipon (Steamed Shrimp)

Palawan coast
5 minutesPrep
10 minutesCook
4Serves
Ingredients
  • 1 kg, heads onlarge fresh shrimp
  • 1 tspsalt
  • 1/2 cupwater
  • 6 pieces, halvedcalamansi
  • 2 tbsp for dippingfish sauce
  • 2 pieces, sliced (optional)chili (siling labuyo)
Method
  1. Place shrimp in a wide pan with water and salt.
  2. Cover and cook over high heat for 5–7 minutes until shrimp turn bright orange-red.
  3. Remove from heat and serve immediately.
  4. Mix fish sauce and calamansi juice for dipping. Add chili if desired.
Cook's note

Halabos is the simplest preparation for fresh shrimp. The quality of the shrimp determines the quality of the dish. In Palawan, the shrimp harvested near the southern islands are exceptionally sweet. Do not overcook—the shrimp should be just done.

Palawan's linguistic landscape is the most complex of any Philippine province. Filipino and English are the languages of government and education. In Puerto Princesa and other lowland towns, Cuyonon, Tagalog, Ilocano, and Cebuano are all spoken. Indigenous communities speak Tagbanwa, Palawanon, Batak, and other languages that are distinct from the Austronesian mainstream.

Cuyonon, TagalogPrimary (lowland)
Ilocano, Cebuano, IlonggoAlso spoken
Tagbanwa, Palawanon, Batak, MolbogIndigenous
Filipino, EnglishOfficial
Batak Language

The Batak people of northern Palawan speak one of the most endangered languages in the Philippines, with only a few hundred fluent speakers remaining. The Batak are nomadic hunter-gatherers whose way of life has been significantly altered by deforestation and settlement pressure.

1.5 hr flight to Puerto Princesa; also flights to El Nido and CoronFrom Manila
~5 hours by van via the national highwayEl Nido from PP
Accessible by air (Busuanga airport) or seaCoron
November to May (dry season)Best months

Places to Visit

Puerto Princesa Subterranean River

The Underground River flows through a massive cave system before emptying into the South China Sea at Sabang, north of Puerto Princesa. The navigable section is 8.2 km long—the longest navigable underground river in the world. Visitors take paddled boats through the cave interior, guided by audio commentary. Permits sell out weeks in advance during peak season.

El Nido

El Nido's limestone karst towers, hidden lagoons, and white sand beaches define the visual image of Palawan. Island hopping tours organized by local operators visit Big Lagoon, Small Lagoon, Secret Lagoon, and Shimizu Island. Snorkeling in the lagoons shows hard coral gardens and abundant reef fish. Accommodation ranges from budget to luxury resort.

Coron and Busuanga

Coron is the wreck diving capital of the Philippines. In September 1944, U.S. Navy planes sank a fleet of Japanese vessels in Coron Bay. The wrecks now lie at depths ranging from 10 to 40 meters and are covered in coral and marine life. Kayangan Lake—a freshwater lake enclosed by limestone walls—is often cited as the cleanest lake in Asia.

Tubbataha Reefs Natural Park

In the Sulu Sea, 150 km southeast of Puerto Princesa, Tubbataha is accessible only by liveaboard dive boat during the March–June season when the Sulu Sea is calm. The reefs support large shark, manta ray, and tuna populations. Access is strictly controlled by the Tubbataha Management Office.

Underground River Permits

Permits for the Underground River are limited to 800 visitors per day and are often fully booked weeks ahead, especially December through May. Book online through the Puerto Princesa City Tourism website as soon as travel dates are confirmed.

Eleven Men in the Water

On the night of December 14, 1944, American prisoners of war at the Puerto Princesa airfield were ordered into underground air raid shelters by their Japanese guards. The guards then poured gasoline on the shelters and set them on fire. One hundred fifty American soldiers died in the enclosures. Eleven men survived by breaking through the bamboo walls, running to the cliff above the bay, and jumping into the sea.

The eleven swam through the dark water to nearby barrios, where Filipino families hid them at great personal risk. Over the following weeks, the survivors were moved by Filipino guerrillas through Palawan's interior—through the forest and along the coast—until they could be evacuated by submarine. Their testimony when they reached Allied lines was the first documented account of the massacre of American POWs in the Philippines.

The massacre is marked by a memorial in Puerto Princesa. The Filipino families who sheltered the survivors are not marked in the same way, which is consistent with how these stories usually go. The historical record is better for the survivors who could speak than for the people who made their survival possible and who remained in Palawan long after the war, among the same population that the Japanese had also occupied.